Know Your Kanchipuram Borders: A Complete Guide to Traditional Kanjivaram Weaves

Pure Kanchipuram silk sarees are more than just festive attire; they are woven stories of heritage, craftsmanship, and timeless beauty. Each saree carries centuries of weaving wisdom, passed down through generations of master artisans in Kanchipuram. One of the most defining features of a pure Kanchipuram silk saree is its border. Borders are not merely decorative; they reflect weaving techniques, loom mastery, regional influence, and cultural symbolism.

For anyone who truly wants to understand pure Kanjivaram silk sarees, knowing the different types of borders is essential. This guide explains traditional Kanchivaram borders in detail, simple, rare, structural, and artistic so you can identify and appreciate authentic craftsmanship with confidence.

Why Borders Are the Soul of Kanchipuram Silk Sarees

Unlike many other silk sarees, a kanchipuram silk saree is never borderless. The border defines the saree’s structure, balance, and strength. Traditionally, the body, border, and pallu are woven separately and interlocked using the korvai technique, making Kanchipuram sarees exceptionally durable.

Borders serve three purposes:

• Structural strength
  
  

• Visual contrast
  
  

• Cultural identity
  
  

Let’s explore each traditional border type that makes pure kanchipuram silk sarees so special.

Getti Border / Solid Border

The Getti border, also called the solid border, is one of the most classic and widely recognised Kanchivaram borders. “Getti” means strong or thick, and this border lives up to its name.

• Bold, solid zari work
  
  

• Clean lines without heavy motifs
  
  

• Ideal for weddings and formal occasions
  
  

• Enhances the richness of the saree body
  
  

Getti borders are a timeless choice in pure kanjivaram silk sarees, offering elegance without overpowering the weave.

Retta Pett Border

“Retta” means double, and Retta Pett borders feature two distinct zari lines running parallel along the border.

• Creates a layered visual effect
  
  

• Often used with traditional colour combinations
  
  

• Balances simplicity and richness
  
  

This border style is commonly found in traditional kanchipuram saree silk collections meant for rituals and temple wear.

Aadai Border (Rare Old-Style Border)

The Aadai border is a very rare and old weaving style, seen mostly in heirloom sarees.

• Inspired by ancient garment patterns
  
  

• Subtle and minimal zari work
  
  

• Extremely uncommon in modern production
  
  

Collectors and heritage lovers value this border in pure kanchipuram silk sarees for its historical significance.

Aasai Border vs Jacquard Border – Understanding the Difference

One of the most common confusions lies between Aasai borders and Jacquard borders.

Aasai Border

• Handwoven manually
  
  

• Requires high skill and time
  
  

• Slight natural irregularities (a sign of authenticity)
  
  

• Found in traditional pure silk sarees
  
  

Jacquard Border

• Loom-assisted pattern creation
  
  

• Faster production
  
  

• More uniform and repetitive designs
  
  

• Often used in contemporary designs
  
  

For purists, pure kanjivaram silk sarees with Aasai borders are considered more traditional and valuable.

Varusai Pett Border

The Varusai Pett border features repetitive lines or sequences woven neatly in zari.

• “Varusai” means order or sequence
  

• Creates rhythmic visual flow
  
  

• Often paired with plain or lightly textured bodies
  
  

This border style adds structured beauty to kanchipuram silk sarees.

Kaal Erangina Border

A uniquely traditional border style, Kaal Erangina translates to “stepping down.”

• Gradual descending zari patterns
  
  

• Adds depth and movement to the border
  
  

• Requires precise weaving control
  
  

This border is a hallmark of skilled craftsmanship in pure kanjivaram silk sarees.

Vairaoosi Border

Inspired by diamond shapes (“Vaira” meaning diamond), the Vairaoosi border is visually striking.

• Repetitive diamond-like zari patterns
  
  

• Symbolises prosperity and strength
  
  

• Common in bridal sarees
  
  

This border elevates the grandeur of kanchipuram saree silk designs.

Bodi Border

The Bodi border is narrow and understated.

• Slim zari detailing
  
  

• Ideal for lightweight and elegant sarees
  
  

• Preferred for daily festive wear
  
  

It proves that even minimal borders can enhance pure kanjivaram silk sarees beautifully.

8 Kol / Ettu Kol Border

The 8 Kol (Ettu Kol) border consists of eight distinct zari lines.

• Represents balance and symmetry
  
  

• Traditional and visually bold
  
  

• Requires precise loom setup
  
  

This border style is often seen in classic kanchipuram silk sarees.

Korvai Borders – The Pride of Kanchipuram Weaving

Korvai weaving is the signature technique of authentic Kanchipuram sarees, where the body and border are woven separately and interlocked.

Types of Korvai Borders

Pillayar Mokku Korvai / Temple Border

• Inspired by temple architecture
  
  

• Strong geometric patterns
  
  

• Symbol of auspiciousness
  
  

Thalampoo Korvai Border

• Floral-inspired motifs
  
  

• Softer and more decorative
  
  

• Perfect for weddings and celebrations
  
  

Neer Korvai Borders

• No motifs at the korvai junction
  
  

• Clean, uninterrupted colour flow
  
  

• Extremely difficult to execute
  
  

A pure kanjivaram silk saree with flawless korvai work is a true mark of authenticity.

Mubbagam Border (Three-Part Weaving)

In the Mubbagam borders, the saree is divided into three equal woven sections.

• Broad and balanced design
  
  

• Creates visual harmony
  
  

• Often paired with rich pallus
  
  

This style showcases advanced weaving skills in kanchipuram saree silk.

Arai Baagam Border (Half-and-Half Border)

Also called Araai Baagam, this style divides the saree into two equal halves.

• Contrasting colours or textures
  
  

• Unique and bold appearance
  
  

• Popular in modern yet traditional designs

Bettu Butta Border

The Bettu Butta border incorporates small woven buttas along the border.

• Adds delicate detailing
  
  

• Enhances elegance without heaviness
  
  

• Complements plain bodies beautifully
  
  

Kattam Woven Borders

“Kattam” refers to checks.

• Geometric check patterns
  
  

• Symmetry-driven designs
  
  

• Rooted in South Indian tradition
  
  

No Zari Border / Pattu Pett Border

Not all Kanchipurams need zari borders.

• Border woven entirely in silk
  
  

• Soft, elegant, and understated
  
  

• Ideal for minimalistic preferences
  
  

Even without zari, these remain authentic pure kanchipuram silk sarees.

Butta Woven Borders

Here, motifs are woven directly into the border.

• Traditional symbols and florals
  
  

• Requires detailed hand weaving
  
  

• Enhances visual interest
  
  

A Note on Borderless Kanchipuram Sarees

Traditionally, there is no such thing as a borderless Kanchivaram. A true pure kanjivaram silk saree will always have a border whether bold, minimal, zari-rich, or silk-only. Borders are integral to the saree’s structure and identity.

Conclusion: Choosing the Right Border Matters

Understanding borders allows you to truly appreciate the craftsmanship behind pure kanchipuram silk sarees. From strong getti borders to intricate korvai techniques, every border tells a story of tradition, skill, and cultural pride.

When you choose a saree with awareness of its border, you’re not just buying silk, you're preserving heritage.